I finally got "@mutt@":http://mutt.org up and running using the nifty little guide, "Using Mutt with Gmail":http://www.andrews-corner.org/mutt.html. Excellent!
One issue I've seen with @fetchmail@ is that you have to run it several times to fetch _all_ your messages -- my inbox currently has more than 2000 e-mails, all of which I wanted to fetch. This is a bit annoying, but once the entire inbox has been fetched, it's no problem.
Another thing is colours (it's _always_ colours). While it's easy enough to modify the colours and understand the syntax for adjusting them, it's not exactly clear what the different "objects" are. Remind me to give a thorough explanation some day.
Here are a few resources on @mutt@:
* "muttrc builder":http://muttrcbuilder.org/
* "The Mutt E-Mail Client: Configuration":http://www.mutt.org/doc/manual/manual-3.html
* "My First Mutt":http://mutt.blackfish.org.uk/